In Trivandrum we ate lunch in a coffee shop that curled around like an ancient version of the Guggenheim. I didn’t do too much reading on the names of food, so I pointed at the menu and asked for the “staff lunch” thinking it was like the special of the day. The waiter chuckled and offered me his towel, so that I could get to work and buy a staff lunch.
Instead we had what was the first of many amazing meals here in India. Mutton curry, chicken biriyani, and a dosa (which is an Indian breakfast crepe). Then we sipped on a cup of the best tea I’ve ever had in my life. They use lots of milk and lots of sugar here. Little did we know, the meal was just the fuel we needed before running into another nightmare bus station experience, that deserves it’s own post.
After the to bus nightmare Mike will describe, we made it to Varkala, a hippyish little beach town. The beaches here are great, but just like in the rest of India, you can get so frustrated here. And also like the rest of the places we’ve been, the delicious food will only reveal itself to you once you’ve earned it–once you’ve had enough looking for shops that no longer exist or trying to decipher a train schedule written in a language that looks like sanskrit.
Like today, I got lost in teh morning and overcharged for a mediocre massage in the afternoon. Then, we travelled all the way across town, via a 30 minute walk and a fifteen minute auto rickshaw ride, looking for an atm. When we found one, it didn’t have any money to dispense!
But like a pot of gold at the end of a jagged rainbow, a barber pointed us to a fabulous little lunch spot where I had a thali, or the Indian version of a vegetarian all you can eat meal, that was to die for. All my troubles melted away.
The food here is a sweet redemption. As long as there is a plate of heaven waiting for me when I’ve exhausted myself or to ready me for a grueling journey, bring it on India, bring it on.